Bernd Rossmanith-Shoulder
Independent hairdresser and hair colourist based in Shoreditch, East London. SASSOON trained. Decades of craft behind the chair across Germany, the UK and Australia. View charges →
Training, career & craft
I was taught the foundations of cutting hair at the most famous institution of hairdressing VIDAL SASSOON (now simply SASSOON).
The educators were utterly ruthless in their pursuit of perfection. They were all British, not German — just so we are clear.
There was only one salon team I wanted to join after that: ULRICH GRAF, the best and most creative salon in Germany at that time. Five critical years of honing my craft cutting hair behind the chair and teaching others made me; and almost broke me.
Ulrich introduced me to AVEDA and within a year I became education manager for the brand in Germany.
When wanting to teach colour for AVEDA UK it meant another training programme. Nothing could be as hard as SASSOON. How wrong I was. My foils were never neat enough, that tint never applied cleanly enough; until I passed.
Those years of training are permanently locked in my brain. Of course I have evolved and progressed since. I do use a razor and a round brush when it's the best choice.
Four years with AVEDA Australia; a chance to focus on colour work behind the chair, teaching and on stage. Winning the Colour Harmony Award was incredible.
Only the best will do; I now use YUV hair colour and OWAY products.
From SASSOON to Shoreditch — the full story
Having been taught the foundations of cutting hair at the most famous institution of hairdressing VIDAL SASSOON (now simply SASSOON) was as transformative for me just as it was for everyone else going through their training programmes.
I sincerely hated most days of every week to be perfectly honest and with no exception dreaded Monday, our training day. Yet again I had only managed to secure two, not the required three models. I do not know how many hours I must have spent during those months loitering outside universities and colleges to accost strangers begging them to let me cut their hair. No social media, no WhatsApp groups, no mobile phones!
Once in a while there was a flicker of hope having completed a haircut when I wasn't told it was utter rubbish and I best start all over again.
The educators were utterly ruthless in their pursuit of perfection. No ever so slightly wonky line would do. They were all British, not German — just so we are clear.
I knew I was in deep sh*t noticing an eyebrow raise when they cross-checked or the guide line could not be found. Yikes!
Of course it was hugely exciting yet massively scary to be allowed to assist during a collection production or to come along to a presentation. Such an invite was considered a great honour!
There was only one salon team I wanted to join after that: ULRICH GRAF, the best and most creative salon in Germany at that time. Himself a SASSOON disciple who had developed his very own creative flair. Five critical years of honing my craft cutting hair behind the chair and teaching others made me; and almost broke me.
When wanting to teach colour for AVEDA UK it meant another training programme to pass. I did not mind. Nothing could be as hard as SASSOON. How wrong I was. My foils were never neat enough, that tint never applied cleanly enough.
As a result of constant prodding I did learn how to perform 'scissor over comb' properly and place my foils in perfect rows just like the raked gravel in a Japanese garden.
Those years of training are permanently locked in my brain. The precision techniques and understanding of the fabric we call hair are retrieved during every single haircut or colour I do. Even decades later.
Of course I have evolved and progressed since. Standing still is certain death in our industry. I do use a razor and a round brush.
I have been around long enough to notice a massive change in our industry. Where are those intentionally designed cuts and colours of our youth? Lines, angles and shapes enhancing the wearer's features? Colours so intricately entwined with the cut and texture they were as one?
Everything seems to be a 'trend' now rather than individually designed looks.
Where are those competent, thorough and personal consultations? Why the 'inspo pic' portfolios on the client's phone brutally suffocating individuality and creativity?
Where is there room for the client's personality; and the stylist's for that matter?
I rejoice when I see a concise beautifully constructed cut and colour on social media. You can still find the odd gem luckily, but you have to dig through a ton of overly styled long wavy blondes. You know the hair which only looks great on Instagram and no client can ever recreate at home.